April 30, 2006

Maison du Cerisier, or House of the Cherry Tree.


(for some really strange reason, if you see a link when the mouse hovers over the text, it takes you to another view of the Patio House... go figure!)

Built in the early 1800's, the house wears it's age well, especially since it's been renovated with all the modern conveniences... well, most of them. Situated on a steep incline, it presents totally different personalities from the two levels... one being large and commanding, the other, meek and cottage-like.

The three of us, Annette, Raya and myself, found it cozy and comfortable... well, once a few fringed warnings were hung at low doorways, especially for moi. I quickly developed a habitual 'bob' as I ducked through all upstairs doors, though only one was actually out to get me. The low stair passage could and did eventually remind everyone that they'd best pay attention.

With the kitchen and dining room on the ground floor, and our actual living space upstairs along with the bed and bath rooms, we set up a coffee corner in the living room for ease of perking that first cup and brought our most casual meals upstairs. It was amazingly easy and comfortable... and the company was always enjoyable. We never knew who might be joining us since for most of the month, the weather was too cool to use the patio as a gathering place and we had plenty of comfy furniture to share.

My bedroom window faced the white blooming cherry trees and marked the passage of the month of April as the tiny white blossoms swelled in size, leafed out and sprouted little green cherries. What a sight it will be when they ripen! One would actually be able to reach out the second story window and pick a few... well, very carefully, but possible. Maybe it's just as well that I won't be there for that temptation.


Some hearty soups and stews were made and shared. Raya won honors as best cook and the house often smelled of something good happening in the kitchen downstairs. But just as often we ate on the fly, making do with sausages, fruit, cheese, bread and wine... and I lost five lbs! We didn't miss a microwave at all and decided that one can cook almost as quick and efficiently on gas. There was usually some nearby village with a market day that offered tempting food choices... and little 'tabac' stores with cheese tarts, fruits and assorted neat breads... we never went hungry! Wine was cheap, delicious and available anywhere at anytime. One could drink way more of the local vin rouge than used to at home and not have a headache or hangover... but then my tests didn't go past 10pm so may not be conclusive.

The huge downstairs dining room easily contained a massive fireplace touted as the best in all the houses. Ummm... there's a trick to it that had to be learned after two very smoky attempts at making it function. Fortunately, the night of our first group gathering, (which grew into a double farewell party and a full house,) able hands knew what to do and it did, indeed, prove to be a hearty hearth with a roaring, smokeless fire. Note the funky basement window, a little daylight, lots of original stone, a lightbulb and a dead plant that began growing mulberry type leaves as the weather warmed.

With just a little attention, the yard with the cherry trees could easily become a real showplace, a stone patio, huge moss covered concrete table, pond, ivy climbing ancient stone walls... all the ambiance is there, but the weather was just a little too cool to actually use it much. Except for a few ants which were soon controlled, we noticed few bugs or critters inside or out.

After a couple of weeks, we all seemed to feel we worked at our art better in this house than in the studio for some reason... perhaps the convenience of having our materials handy, or the ambiance of the house in general, maybe both. But we all agreed that it was a very comfortable and likeable home for our month in France.


The Patio House


Built on old ruins within the last few years and largely designed by the resident sculptor, Nicolae Flessig, the multi-level Patio House is a fascinating living and working space. Colorful roof and trim tiles help make it distinctively different, in a funky Mediterranean way, from the surrounding, straightforward buildings of a certain age and state of repair.

Included in the maze-like structure are at least two residences, the main Cat'Art office and library and two studios, one is designed for ceramics but it also made a good painting spot with it's large windows inviting plenty of light along with wide views of the surrounding landscape.

The sunken patio is the centerpiece with an olive tree growing out of the patterned, tiled floor.

Built-in benches line walls, note the rear side of the fireplace serving the outer terrace.

There are some fabulously whimsical, unique, hand-made chairs available to pull up to the tables. One wonders about the origins, where the ideas came from, how it all came to be... such stories could be told! Note the concrete and iron 'painting'.

A stained glass window,

stylized gargoyles, (this one, possibly a self portrait?)

and hand wrought iron gates, are just a few of the creative touches around the area. But I was always finding something that went unnoticed before. What a party place! No doubt, many good times have been had here... one small gathering grew into quite a crowd on one of our last evenings together.

April 29, 2006

The Grounds of Cat'Art

The Cat'Art website cannot begin to show the wealth of creative inspiration to be found in and around the various buildings. The grounds are dotted with sculptures, mostly by the acclaimed sculptor in residence, Nicolae Flessig and the walls hold many paintings and carvings left by assorted artists unknown to most. Some of the work is very crude, even seemingly unfinished, some very refined and polished.

Even as the month waned I was still discovering hidden sculptures in and around the shrubs and trees on both campuses. Nicolae is very much an integral part of the center, his studio is on the La Forge campus and his influence is felt everywhere. The Cat'Art library contains a number of very slick exhibition catalogs, adding to our appreciation of his skill. Getting to know this sculptor and his work was an unexpected bonus.

April 28, 2006

Essence Of Plane Tree

Very often, when an artist returns from a trip or experience out of their usual realm of reality, they are asked about the inspiration they now have that they didn't have before. What are you bringing back? What will be different about your work after soaking up all that new info? Personally, I like to be surprised because if I focus on it too diligently, I don't see anything... or, conversely, I see everything where there really isn't anything. Of course, the landscape, in all it's spring glory, will stay with me, and the brutal Cathar/Crusades history is a source of continuing interest... though most of the ruins (and probably the facts) have been so tampered with over the centuries (how could they not be?) that one can only suppose that this or that was true. The answer? I don't know.

I do know, however, that I could not have been in a more satisfying location... being a gardener and lover of all things having to do with nature, I was in my element!

First noted was the rows of plane trees lining the roads which were probably cart paths when planted. Some still girdle busy highways and perhaps an additional lane has been built along the other side of the row... or not. Our large vans and SUV's best stay home... they would not be happy here. We loved our little rentals, btw... so civilized!



The trees are much like our sycamores, but I understand there is a difference. Some had the twigs still attached, some had been stripped bald, for kindling, I'm told. During our month, they leafed out with the most astounding yellow-green ocher color, and began to create a canopy which is probably most welcome in the hot summer ahead. Tortured trunks from irregular pruning and close encounters with passing vehicles seemed to speak of the land's history, the Inquisition and all that went with it.

So, of course my early sketching efforts were drawn to these subjects. (A reminder that all photos enlarge with a click.)

I did several in watercolor on long, skinny half sheets meant for landscape, capturing, I think, the unique colors of the bark. I don't know what I was after, certainly not a realistic interpretation, but perhaps just a bit more information that I could use in connection with the myriad of photos I took of these stately soldiers.

Eventually, I had to begin to explore how and what I would take from these trees, if anything. Had to work through it, first by tracing the realistic images, then searching for the essence... something I could translate in paint. I'd brought sumi-e ink and bamboo pens and brushes (the lines in the w/c were used with same) and I began churning out little squares of rice paper scribbles... most of which related to these trees in some way, even if very remotely.

I won't focus on these at this time, but will show here the temporary assemblage I put together on the floor of the studio on our last day in residence. We were asked to 'perform for the cameras'; there to make a video for promoting the center, and I had to unpack all this stuff for the occasion. I thought I'd use the time to try one more thing I'd meant to do but hadn't because I moved all my gear to my bedroom. I made a long bamboo stick and taped a bamboo pen to one end and a brush to the other... then taped large sheets of rice paper to the floor... and proceeded to dip into what was left of my ink, and make intuitive marks on the paper. Since my efforts to capture the plane tree in an artistically abstract way were less than wonderful, I added some of my predrawn squares which satisfied me. Okay... it isn't great art, but I expect to use it as a springboard... just don't ask me how!

April 27, 2006

Remember Me?

I'm the one who promised much and delivered little... still no pics up and way overdue in documenting my French experience. Will get to all that (another promise) but just wanted to remind all (including moi) that I didn't fall off the edge of the earth, I was just without all the computer support needed to keep my promises... and arrived home to find my faithful and favorite desktop wasn't cooperating (sulking, more like it!) But it's fixed and I'm on the case of getting things in order. Just know this... it was a great trip with a fine bunch of folks... and the eatin' was good!

Found this entry that was never uploaded, written in the last days of our residency, thought I'd might as well post it now:
Saturday, Apr 22...

I'm just about packed for the trip home on Monday. Sunday will be a busy day so I thought it best to get the bulk of it done and out of the way... find all the odds and ends that seem to wander away (evidence of reservations home, car rental papers, etc... even the American dollars shuffled away... now what safe place did I settle on? Ah, there's the passport, money and papers... all is well. Phone is charged and turned off to save the charge until I need it in Paris... should our flight be delayed or we have another miscue as we did coming in. But everything should go smoothly.

The last few days have not been newsworthy, though certainly enjoyable. As a group we are reaching out to each other a bit more, knowing that our time is short. Today we took all our work to the big studio and talked about it to the others... sharing our motovation and such. It was a good time and we realized we'd done more than we'd thought. Raya and Cheryl completed the most pieces, Annette has an impressive sketchbook/journal which she took out of the coil and spread out for all to see... the rest of us have a lot of 'work in progress' plus ideas to act upon and new directions to explore.

Seems there is a documentary crew here to film the center and we are supposed to put on some kind of painting show for background interest, I guess... ummmmmmmmm.... wonder if there's a lilac bush I can hide behind? However, if participating is some kind of payback for the use of these exceptional facilities, I'll do my part.

Speaking of lilac bushes, the whole scene has changed here... white cherry blossoms have gone and now perky little green cherries have replaced them. Dark purple irises edge aged stone walls, yellow fields of dandilions are fields of puffs, red leaf plums shock the dominant greens, new leaves of green-ocher on white barked poplars and plantane trees... and the lilacs... everywhere! I'm itching to get back to my garden of pots and rocks... determined to have wisteria somewhere.

April 19, 2006

To The Hills!

This is the day! Sun is shining, no wind, air temp is perfect for a walk. So off I go with sketch stuff in backpack, camera in hand. Take a different path to the village, this one is gravel with no traffic allowed. I find a little wall to sit on and draw the hill that overlooks Ste Colombe, with houses grouped and scattered up the side. I'd driven it before and knew you could see Lac Montbel on the other side... but had put off walking it until conditions, including my legs, were all pointing in the right direction. I took lots of pics but will compose the tour when I get back home... enough to say, I was not disappointed. Didn't sketch, but like sketching vs photos, walking allows so much more to see than driving.

[The village campus of Cat'Art can be seen in this photo of Ste Colombe taken from the hill. It's located just beyond the row of plane trees and parking lot, mostly hidden by the trees. It's a group of buildings surrounding a center courtyard studded with sculptures of all kinds. Note the road leading toward the church/square... about half way up is the only little store in town. Ellie's (2nd) house is located in the little cluster of buildings on the upper right.]

I find going down is more of a challenge to my still slightly bruised knees than climbing up... but all is well and I make it back in as good shape as I went, just a whole lot warmer. A bit later Annette and I decide to head for Lavelanet for one more marked day, but it was not much of one compared to the last time we came. So we bought some bread and drove around town a bit... the villages are coming alive with window boxes and curtains blowing through open windows... such charm! And the weeds! The most beautiful weeds I've ever seen! Still lots of white blossomed trees, wish I could tell the difference... a lot of flowers I'm totally unfamiliar with on trees, shrubs and in the grass.

So, noticed a sign to Chateau Montsegur, the last holdout of the Cathar Monks, 1244, high on a pog (big rock of a mountain)... that such a place was built in the first place is a wonder! Where did they get their water??? And you can see it for miles and miles... how well hidden is that? So many questions... will have to spend time with Google when I return. Took a back road home and passed through more gorges, rushing streams, hidden villages, small roads turning into smaller roads, hair pin turns with no room for error... what a delightful day!

[afternote: I now learn that this structure dates from the 1600's and there are only traces of authentic former Cathar habitations just outside the present walls.]

Methinks I'll be spending the rest of the day in a much slower mode... yesterday was a good production day... working in my room really makes the difference. Creating lots of "essence paintings" on ricepaper with sumi ink... have some other thoughts I'll play with later today... will see what I have when I get home, if it's worth carrying any further... I think it will be.

[afternote: the 'essence' I seem to be most drawn to is that of the plane or platane trees, especially in their severely pruned state as is common in the area... much as we prune our crepe myrtles, but more so, as seen in the row of foreground trees in the village picture. This row of assorted efforts hung over my bed when I moved my work area to my room instead of the studio. I somehow became much more responsive with a worktable close at hand.]

April 18, 2006

Easter Party

They must have been planning this party for some time... just to clear out the huge sculpture shed to seat 72 people was a job in itself. And midafternoon they came... many in vans to sleep in... many with children... and dogs. Perhaps it's an annual event, I didn't ask, but they surely had a good time. Don't know how many chickens contributed to the event, but there were lots. An axe for a butcher's knife flattened them for the big square grill and I suspect cooking went on through the night. Some of the resident artists helped decorate tables and food and it was all quite festive. The boiled eggs were dyed robust earth colors... no Peter Cotton Pastels here... I want to try that next time I color eggs.

The party went on into the night... shucks... I think it's still going on this afternoon! There were drums... I didn't see them since I headed to bed at ten, but at 12 and 2am, I knew there were drums. The weather itself was something to celebrate... clear and sunny, but it chilled as soon as the sun went down... and I retreated. I won't complain about the heat of a B'ham summer this year, I don't think, I do need to warm up a bit. Thought it might be a nice afternoon but the rain finally got it's way and has returned.

I've moved all my gear back to a large table in front of my bedroom window. I'm used to having my workspace close by and I feel more productive this way. Working in w/c's today, referencing photos on my laptop, listening to favorites on my MP3, and glad I splurged on the little speaker system since earphones are a bother. Robin and Raya are touring more castle ruins, Annette's working on her book, Cheryl and Pat are in their basement studio... we're on countdown now. I'm on overload and just need to sort my photos and begin to think about the return trip... the thought of more markets or ruins does not excite me at this point in time... maybe tomorrow.

April 18, Tuesday...

We were invited to feast on the leftovers last night, along with a few other close friends and workers from the center. Since their dinner hour is much later than ours, we ate little (except for some REAL French onion soup and the wine) but enjoyed the ambiance of a large but cozy dinner table with chatter in two languages. This morning, sad to say, we still have gray and blowsey weather. I'd planned to walk the river path, pick up a few groceries to get us through the rest of the week (out of coffee and wine... there's a real need here!) but may wait to see if the weather clears this afternoon. Other than that, I'm focusing on using up the paper I brought, one way or another. I'm so proud of my knees for not caving and making the rest of my visit very uncomfortable... a bit bruised still, but better and more functional every day. Some are off to the caves today... I hear it's a bit of a challenge to get through the ups and downs of it so have elected to skip that adventure.

Last time I found a chance to find time on the computer, I had a note from my all-grown-up grandaughter Lauren, and she made it home in fine fashion... just another little conquering moment on the path to adulthood... she's gonna do fine, it's I who must get through a bunch more grandkids in the growing up mode... maybe it will keep me young???

April 16, 2006

Easter Sunday, Apr 16

Just read the best news in a round-about way... Lauren called her Grampie to tell him she was in a Best Western in Brussels and to please let me know that all was well. He emailed me and I am so relieved. To back up to yesterday's hectic puzzle, we arrived at the airport in Carcassonne in plenty of time for her 5pm flight home, but the incoming flight was delayed and would not take off until 7:20, making her late connections by train and bus back to her small town home in Belgium impossible. What to do? Staying over another day might only repeat the situation, so she took the late plane with the intention of finding a hotel and taking train and bus home the next day... Easter, with it's skewed schedules. At least I know she's okay and hasn't been abducted by a sex slave ring... you know how those thoughts fester and grow. Last night I turned on Yo Yo Ma and let him saw away at my heart strings.. yes, I wallowed in it, feeling helpless to do anything else.

Today! A beautiful Easter Sunday... a BBQ party is being prepared in the sculpture shed near us... lots of tables and chairs, so it's going to be a hoppin' good time, I bet! I'll catch up on the travelog later... and try to organize some pics to show. Suzanne, if you're reading this, tell David I'm appreciating his very cheerful guitar on my little MP3 and speaker... so appropriate to lift me into this wonderful new day.

I will now close my purse, set aside the car keys and delve into my materials, trying to get some of these images onto paper this week. I'm pretty sure I know the direction my work will be taking, sure hope I can do the translation from mental to actual. Have seen all I need to see. This last week will be productive!!! Have moved all my stuff back to my room, Opened up the folding table in front of the window (also open to the singing birds) and will have a very good working space right here in my room.If this last week continues as lovely as today, I'll also be able to do some outdoor work... sure hope so!

April 14, 2006

What Goes Round, Comes Round... The Mer And Beyond

Thursday, April 13

A long day, but we hit our appointed rounds perfectly, thanks to Lauren's excellent French and navigational abilities. We were off and running by 8am, she saw her first fortress ruins at Puivert as we turned onto the main drag to Perpigan. The highlight of that road is Quillan and the gorges, slowed down by rock clean-up crews, a number of construction slowdowns along the way. But still made good time... took the Autoroute south, trying to avoid traffic at Perpignan but still getting a good share.

Port-Vandres was our first stop and really the highlight of all the stops in the area. An awesome fishing village, all grown up, but not too touristy, no crowds. We found a nice resturant with a view and ate in the sun (L has the pink to show for it) and sketched between courses. The Med was beautiful... wait til you see the pics!

Wound our way back to Collioure and were disappointed because that's were the tourists were on this sunny, warm day... we did a couple of loops around and left the area, decided we wanted to find a beach (plage) and through some miracle, drove straight to one... beautifully landscaped and free parking to boot. More pics taken but I learn later that my settings have accidently changed due to shoving it in and out of my waist pack and most are ruined from this point on. I don't leave the screen on to save battery life so didn't realize it..,RATS! Did note one woman swimming, lots of kids playing in sand, teens on Easter break, but not really crowded at all. The 'sand' is ground rock, few shells, but some interesting driftwood.

Did some more driving around and decided it was time to go home and at 4pm we headed in that direction. A few missed turns had us going back on country roads which were actually shorter in distance, but probably not in time. We had a few adventures along the way, the round-a-bouts are such a civilized way to direct traffic in large or small towns, and most are landscaped and feature big sculptures... such ambiance! We were back home at 6:30! Perfect! Lauren even got a little sun-pink to take back to Belgium!

Tomorrow, we will go to the marked in Lavelanet, and then kick back around the local area, taking it easy, sketching and w/c's... she's doing great, I'm so proud!

==========

To Market To Market!

Stopped in village of LaBastide on the way... the Pyrenees were showing proud over a lovely park with rushing water and parading plane trees... an empty house showed wonderful possibilities for a combo gite (B&B) art gallery and studios, but that's the way day dreams go, donchaknow? The market was big but I didn't see my favorite scarf man and I'd planned to buy several more for take home gifts... maybe another market another day.

And then... I fell. Missed a step coming out of a little shop, my whole weight went to my knees, then my hands, then my face. Saw stars for a minute but knew immediately that I was okay, nothing broken, not even glasses, just badly bruised... the knees might take a few days to recompose themselves. I've put Tiger Balm on them and they appreciated, took some ibuprophen and am trying to keep moving as much as possible. Lunch was served to me upstairs... good friends in convenient places! Best to stick to straight chairs as getting up and down is a real pain, but doable. Hoping tomorrow will proved better as we head for the major tour, Le Cite' in Carcassonne, then deliver Lauren to the airport and wave her home to Belgium. We will be on the downhill side of our French adventure... it's going so FAST!

April 13, 2006

Whirlwind...

THURSDAY, Apr 13

Where am I, what day is this? It's been a whirlwind! Lauren is here, still asleep, but I must wake her soon as we are headed for the coast and I don't know how long the drive will be. Giving us three hours each way and three to poke around Coulloire (sp?) Will drive through Qillan (Kee-on) and see the gourges everyone says are not to be missed.

Yesterday was an early start day as well, Annette and I met the Clemens in Limoux and then drove on to the Roman town of Narbonne where she had to pick up paintings from a very chic dress shop where they had been displayed. I noticed several shops had original work displayed in their windows. Lots of pics including A and I standing on the Roman road that had been uncovered and primped up to make a charming tourist Kodac moment. Had lunch nearby, more pics, then we split for Carcassone... big towns/cities do nothing for me these days... though the peek at la Cite, the huge fortress we'll visit Saturday, is quite spectacular... google it! Would you believe I blew up my neck pillow and pulled a rainhat over my face and actually snoozed a minute or two while A reviewed some maps? She discovered we were not far from Monseur, the book village, and had time to make a quick visit before meeting Lauren at the airport at five. So off we went! Browsed, bought, took pics, hustled back to find the airport... not as easy as we'd hoped, then Joel calls as I'd suggested he might be able to get through... and might have been a bit alarmed as we called out road signs, determined the need for U-ies and made other sounds of confusion during the conversion. He decided to call back in 45 min when we would hopefully have Lauren in tow... He did... we did... they talked... all is well. Course, the battery went out in my phone so the call ended abruptly. Sorry 'bout that.

Got Buggie up and steered toward the shower... will cut this short and hope that the day warms as promised and that doggoned wind dies down.

April 11, 2006

Monday In Mirepoix, Apr 10

Ellie and John came over early to join us on our Mirepoix trip but we were delayed getting an early start so sent them on their way with the possibility that we would see them there. Raya and Robin took Debbie to the airport in Toulouse, Pat and Cheryl had other plans as they had spent time in Mirepoix on their trip here two years ago. And tomorrow they leave for a few days in Provence. We (Annette and I) took the shorter, direct route, and held out hope that the day would warm up... the sun did appear for a bit but this is winter weather, no ifs, ands or buts! Brrrr! And Lauren asked in her last email if shorts would be appropriate, after all, this IS the South of France! No, Buggie... we should just hope for light sweater weather.

The market was impressive... google Mirepoix and you'll see a village of much character. We took pics of each other modeling our new scarves and a young merchant jumped into the picture with me, head close and arm around my shoulder... so we bought more scarves from him, of course. However, could only find berets made of heavy wool, looking for a lighter variety to bring as g-kid gifts.

And we actually did run into the Clemens as the market began to pack up, so we joined them for another heavily laden lunch when we could have done with a light salad... but such a bargain to go for the multi course daily special. Next time I will restrain myself... promises, promises.

I agreed to go with Annette into the big church that anchored the square, really quite impressive though I don't lean to a lot of church viewing... landscapes are more my thing. Since I'm unable to upload pics as I'd like, you can google the Catheral of St Maurice, Mirepoix, for the particulars.

We took the long, winding way home and found many photo-ops, I hope I can find the names of all these ruins and castles, I sure took enough pictures. But now we have a conflict in our schedule... seems we've made plans to go in two different directions on Thursday... Yikes! Will have to nail it down without hurting a host along the way. Everyone has been so generous with their time and information... don't know when we would paint... so much to do! But sketching is all I planned to do and some of that is being accomplished... and more will as the weather warms.

Tried to call home from Mirepoix but couldn't get through even though I had a signal... the world may be getting smaller, but it's also getting more complicated. I feel very far away except for email. No supper tonight, for sure! Not even cheese... it's beginning to glue my innerds together, methinks.

Appreciating the comments being left... makes me feel closer.

April 10, 2006

Party Hearty

MONDAY MORN Apr 10

Our simple goodbye supper for Debbie grew and grew... it was also Chin Kong Yee's farewell (a photographer/painter from Maylasia who is making a six week European tour, if I have my info straight) so we increased our circle table to include Kong Yee and the director Catherine along with Christoph (maintenance) Eddie (yardman) and the very interesting character, Nickoli, a sculptor of whom you'll hear more since we plan to travel to Andorra (up in the Pyrenees) to see his latest show later this week. John and Ellie were also invited so my little rice and sausage soup designed to fuel two or three easily through the coming week, expanded and grew to accomodate all. Of course, the offerings brought by our guests enhanced the dinner mightily...

Christoph built a roaring fire in what we had been told was the best fireplace in the area, but we had only managed to make it smoke up the entire house on two previous attempts... there are secrets to building a good fire and even Raya's long time experience didn't include the pecularities of this particular hearth. Raya had bought flowers earlier in the day, probably to paint, but they provided a delightful ambiance along with candles arranged by Annette. Daffy, J&E's dalmation, was the signature French touch as most resturants here allow dogs to enter with their owners. She was very well behaved considering how hungry she tried to look.

Overcast out there this morning, a fairly stiff breeze making the cherry blossoms dance outside my window... another day for layering clothes... perhaps this afternoon the sun will return. Not sure we will bother with the market in Mirepoix today or not, but another adventure drive will surely be considered. They never disappoint.

April 09, 2006

Life Drawing And Driving

SATURDAY, April 8

Life drawing class in Esperaza today, Raya and I made sure we had maps with us this time, as it is so easy to miss the little roads that are so scenic and actually shortcuts to where we needed to go. Ellie invited all but we were the only ones interested so off we went. Amazingly, we made the trip in 45 minutes and arrived early. Parked in the designated spot, looked for a cafe for coffee and potty but could only find a bar so held out until spotting Ellie waving us down. Two hours of drawing, the model was a delightful young woman with lovely lines, I'm fairly pleased with my attempts since it's been a good 25 yrs (gad! a quarter century!) since I last experienced life drawing. Maybe there's a chance of getting the eye-hand coordination thing going again! One can hope.

After the session, we went to the Clemens where John already had my computer fixed (Cheryl and Pat had arrived with it earlier) so I was able to go online at full speed at last... but I was out of sorts as I had forgotten my phone and had hoped to get a call from home as well as call Lauren in Belgium regarding her arrival on Wednesday. The use of borrowed phones was generous but unsatisfactory. However, email is working fine so will have to do.

Off to a pizza place nearby for lunch and then we said our goodbyes after getting directions to a grocery store which we didn't find... oh well... we'll survive until Monday when we go to the market Mirepoix which should be a nice, big one. Hope to find the same bread man the Esperaza market had... best ever!

Attended to the ATM machine again and and headed back home, this time making plenty of time for photo-ops along the way. The sun was catching the sharp greens of the fields just right, and we remembered a roadside house with wisteria clinging and at it's perfection. Vineyards in the area as well, lots of good photos which I just haven't had time to upload... most will have to wait until I get home to share.

Sad to say the dratted heel pain I thought I'd disposed of has recurred with a vengence, it may slow me down a bit but won't knock me out. I think a good night's sleep will help the whole of me... will break down and take a sleep aide tonight. Don't know that anything is planned for tomorrow, I'll take it easy and stay close to the house... much to sketch around here anyway, might as well take advantage.

SUNDAY, Apr 9

Lots of stretches and massaging of the foot last night fixed the heel for today, hurrah! Annette and I drove out in a direction we'd not yet been and discovered one inviting little village after another. Found a Tabbac (small grocery) that had some luscious pizza/cheese tart offerings so we stocked up for our immediate needs knowing we'd be off to a large outdoor market tomorrow. Continued on down the road and spotted a beautiful chateau raising over the village of Lanet. Thought it was a church at first, but when we found ourselves in front of it, realized it was a chateau that had been converted into apartments or condos. The fields across the street had manicured hedges enclosing 'rooms' for the sheep grazing there. So very picturesque. After all our country driving and photographing on little cartpath roads, we found ourselves out of film and batteries so had to resort to pulling out the sketchbooks and having at it.

Lilacs are beginning to bloom, many townhomes that are occupied have lined their doors and windows with flowerboxes... more are popping up each time we drive through another village. A wonderful time of year to be visiting this country.

Debbie leaves tomorrow and I've made a large pot of soup so we have invited the group from the patio house for dinner tonight. Our electricity went out last night but it's been fixed today... all our heaters must have surged on at the same time. Blessed sunshine today, still cool enough for several layers, but the weather don't get no better than this!

(Sorry no pics... not an option today)

April 08, 2006

Catching Up...

As it happens, our well thought out plans don't always happen in a straight line {{surprise!}} so I've not been able to post to my blog as regularly as I'd hoped. If you read this, some of the problems will have been solved, if you see photos, even more of the gremlins will have been conqured. The following is from my daily journal which I will share here since that seems to be about the easiest way to do this. Bottom line, I love it here, encourage other artists to look into Cat'Art as a very inexpensive but well located art residency... they could not be nicer people to deal with and the facilities are very special (don't come expecting the Hilton... it offers a much more realistic experience.)

FRIDAY’S FLIGHT…
Atlanta to CDG, Paris, France…flying Delta, transferring to Air France with 55 minute layover. No way to make those connections from the back of one large plane, on the tarmac, delivered by bus to the wrong side of the airport. We hurried, but signage was very poor and we lost our way, up and down marble stairs with two heavy bags each (rollers being carried,) doubling back, trying to find help, finally pointed in right direction, something triggers the alarm and Annette’s bags are searched, we arrive at an empty gate, panting and knowing we’ve missed the flight. We learn that they habitually overbook and it’s not likely anyone can connect to that flight as they should be there 45 min before boarding, etc, etc… but we weren’t even early enough to qualify for the next plane (this is 8am) so we are assigned the third plane to Toulouse, five hours later. Our major concern is with Ellie and John who were to meet us at the Toulouse Airport… no way to get word to them, but when we arrived, they, dear friends, were there to greet us, helped with getting our rental car and lead us thorough the urban maze to the beautiful rural countryside of Languedoc. Once we left the toll road, every turn of the road took my breath away.
We drove through numerous small villages, and finally through an alley of plane trees, speckled in color like sycamores but more white, and cut to nubs as we trim crepe myrtles… but these are quite large and who knows how old… trunks 10 or more feet in circumference… I’ll have to check. I could do a good size series just on various trees… such personality each has, alone or in multiples.

The green on new grass in fields, contrasting with the warm earth of plowed fields (for corn, I think I’ve been told) is incredible. And the patchwork of ages old cultivated fields, defined with shrubs such as spirea in bloom with other assorted dark greens… very definitive of the area.

Arriving in Ste Colombe suddenly at the end of the allee of trees… almost a shock… it’s a quite, clean, resurging village… many townhomes are being renovated, mixed with others in need of repair… all centuries old… somehow neither diminishes the other and they reside side by side comfortably. It’s the cleanliness that I wasn’t prepared for… the streets must be swept daily, or nearly. Pride is evident, but I see that nearly all villages are as charming and well cared for.

A bit of confusion finding Catherine and keys, so Annette and John stay with the luggage while Ellie and I drive to LaForge… then are told that Masion de Cherries (Fr sp?) is available and she gives us a tour… it would be great to be in the same complex with the others in the group… both houses have advantages, but we decide it’s best to stick together so we change our plans and reside side by side rather than in and out of town. The other house, occupied by Pat, Cheryl, Robin and Debbie, is much newer and appears more Mediterranean with it’s tile work, sunken patio with olive tree. Both houses special but so different.

My bedroom looks out on the back yard through a huge cherry tree in full bloom. It’s a real treat. You enter the upstairs part of the house first, it contains three bedrooms, split bath and shower room, and a living area. Downstairs is a large room with fireplace, large table and kitchen… plus another bedroom which we won’t need. It’s perfect… not the Hilton, but it will suit us well.

As the others arrive we prepare to attend the welcoming party and greet several of the locals, though not everyone has come, we are busy catching up with each other anyway… not quite sure when dinner will be served, but remembering that this is Europe and they eat later than we do… it was worth the wait, wonderful casserole but I can’t really describe it… potatoes and fish in one (much better than it might sound.) Well, we’ve had a long day. I’m really glad I’d prepared to avoid jet lag by going to bed earlier and earlier each night… though it was somewhat negated by not being able to sleep on the plane… what a noisy experience that was.

SATURDAY, April 1
Annette, Raya and I share the same house… Raya from Santa Fe, has been in Europe for ten days already, is tired of touring and ready to settle down and work, but her allergies are doing a job on her… seems she’s allergic to just about everything.

We took our gear to the studio in the village today, claimed our workspace then A. and I walked several blocks in the immediate area to get a closer look and a better feel for it all. Then we took the car, my first time driving, I can still do the stick shift stuff I’m relieved to learn, and we drove several streets looking for the Clemens second home. I spotted it from a photo she’d showed us right after they bought it. It will eventually be her main studio but they will continue to use the Esperaza house as their primary residence. Great possibilities. It’s down a rural road with another cluster of homes on a hillside with wonderful views.

SUNDAY, April 2, 2006
Market day in Esperaza. The C’s meet us here and we follow in two cars, first to the house I spotted yesterday for a tour. I took several pictures… very interesting to get to know the configuration of homes in comparison to what we are used to. Wonderful possibilities even considering they are no upper end homes and could use upgrading… but even without, they have great ambiance natural to their setting.

They led us on a back road to Esperaza, through several more interesting looking villages… so good to know we’ll have plenty of time to explore each.
Arrived at the market, gathered veggies, sausage, cheese and bread… then went to the C’s house… such a nice day, we mainly lolled around in their courtyard, so lovely, so private. John set several of our laptops to handle the Internet from their quarters, but mine gave out of battery and he couldn’t get it fully installed… maybe next time, don’t know how the situation with the art center will work, but I’ll give it a try, at least for email… French keyboard though, they say that will take some getting used to. These notes are composed on my laptop and I’ll carry it and a few pics on my little transfer gizmo. Hope that works. Made sausage soup last night with stuff from the market.

MONDAY, April 3, 2006

Went to studio alone in morn, others doing other things… scratched through assorted materials, trying to get the awkwards out of my system to make room for the real thing. Met A. and we set off for a wandering ride but found Ellie on her way to find us, decided to go pick up some folding chairs at her house and find a sketching spot. Then found Chin Kong Yee wandering around (he’s a newly painter/photographer from Malaysia) and asked if he’d like to join us… he joined Ellie in her car and off we went… but we couldn’t keep up with her and became separated, visited a hilltop castle in our search, but later found her on side of road sketching and waiting for us… her bright blue car easy to spot. Finally did a bit of sketching but it was turning cold so we parted, taking Kong Yee with us and headed home… the long way, unintentionally. After much winding around, I asked KY if this is how he’d planned his day… he answered graciously that he had been seeking beauty and it gave him a ride.

Introduced to the Center’s computer… a Mac with a French keyboard… near impossible to figure out, but was able to read mail at least. Tomorrow I’ll try sending mail but it will be slow to upload many pics. I’m copying this to a little portable USB drive to avoid having to use the funky keyboard any more than necessary. Had another impromptu meal of cheese bread and wine… a little fruit and dried ham. I’m loving this kind of food prep!

April 6, Thursday

Good Morning...Looks like an overcast day again... I hear it might be with us for a couple more days. I miss the sunshine that lights up these landscapes.but it will be back. A bit of chill without the sun, but I'm layering and that's fine. I've walked the fifteen minute cart path between La Forge and the village, some if it is along the river, then turns and crosses the newly plowed field toward the cluster of very old buildings, some belonging to the center, others privately owned or rented... most in poor repair. The Cat'Art yard and house man arrived today from Germany/Romainia and will stay the summer... hope he doesn't cut the lawns until the wildflowers finish blooming, the dandilions are the healthiest I've ever seen and should be grown commercially for their flowers. I'll probably think differently as they turn to seed.

Yesterday Annette, Raya and I drove to Chalabre (Sha LOB) thinking there was a market in the square but we had the wrong day. No matter, we walked from small shop to smaller shop gathering bread, veggies, meat, wine to get us through a few more days. Meals have sometimes been in group, sometimes on our own. Often the evening meal consists of cheese, bread, fruit and whatever else might fit in... and lots of conversation, often trivial, but that's okay.

While in Chalabre and standing at an ATM discussing it's workings, a woman came up and introduced herself as Randy and asked if we were the new artists at Cat'Art. We were delighted to see her as we read her blog and scoured her pictures of the area to get it's feel. A link to her blog and pictures is on mine... perhaps she will write about our meeting, it will be fun to read if I ever get to a proper broad band connection (maybe Saturday.) She took us all through her centuries old house, explaining it's renovations, showing us the untouched cellar and attic, her French husband explaining the history of it... all so very interesting.

Ellie joined us for an afternoon of sketching and painting in the studio on the main campus, I left the keys with Annette and walked home later... trying to finish my book on the area, Labyrinth, by Kate Mosse... the reincarnated characters, present day and 12th Century, walked the same towns... nicely wrapping the fictional story around factual history.

No special plans today, will have the car to myself since Annette is going to Toulouse with Catherine (the director) Perhaps Raya and I will go for a drive. Robin and Debbie have left for Barcelona, Would love to see the sun come out. But so far, at least, no rainy days other than a brief sprinkle.

FRIDAY, Apr 7

The sun shines bright, still a chill in the air but a big improvement over the damp cold of yesterday. Raya and I set out for the bridge house on the edge of Ste Colombe to sketch. I am finally beginning to be satisfied with what I am able to put down. Three drawings of the naked plane trees and each is an improvement on the previous... I'm finding my stride, though it is still painfully slow. Especially attempts at structures... requiring exact proportions, lines that make sense. With the trees I can interpret and who would know the difference? Moi? Oui... Ha! My French! A lady approaches and is not satisfied with a simple Bonjour Madame... she wants to see the drawings, which I show, and attempt to express my love for the lovely view... we struggle to communicate... she finally convinces me to get up from my chair and follow her into the bridge house and out the other side where there is a lovely park around a single tennis court... I get a history lesson of the area, but I can only smile and nod my head, approving gleefully even if she is describing bloody cult rituals, which for all I know, she might be.

I've lost my artsy reverie so decide to return to LaForge, Raya says she will follow her own path for the rest of the day, not to be concerned. I find Ellie and John at the house with Pat, Annette and Cheryl, and plans are made for lunch at the only resturant in SteC. Annette has a phone call from her daughter and we learn that the book she thought had gone up in smoke is now her's to continue writing. We are happy for her as she so deserves to write this book... I understand that in Susan's rush to locate her mother (difficult in this rural area) she woke Joel at 5:30 am thinking she was calling my cell number... Ha!

The lunch.... for 11 Euros, we got the whole nine yards. Three meats for starters, including a wonderful pate, entree of good ole down home soul food... cabbage, sausage, ham, potato stew, with what appeared to be a big hunk of cornbread, but turned out to be some kind of soffle (oh yum!) Great pot likker with plenty of french bread to soak it up. On to the cheeses, then strawberry and cream dessert followed by coffee... they do really good coffee in these parts! Did I mention that a couple of pitchers of marvelous red wine accompanied our lunch?

Before I left this morning, I hand washed all undies and socks, saving the heavy stuff for the machine challenge which I hear is some kind of right of passage. Had them all hung on the line outside the door, but then noticed the yardman was plowing through the spring grasses with his riding mower and seemed to be avoiding the area of the clothesline. For both our sakes, I removed the undies and saved to rehang later... on our return, that area still was not mowed but he was nowhere in sight so I rehung.

Well, we certainly won't be fussing with supper tonight... I've had a restful nap but still fell drugged from the overdose of delicious food. Tomorrow, Saturday, we go to Esperaza to the life drawing class, and John will ready my laptop for highspeed use at their place... perhaps the phone will get some use. I'll keep it charged and close to me in case I get a call from home in the afternoon. I expected we'll be in cell phone range most of the early afternoon (hint-hint! That's early morning to youse guys!)

We are already beginning to make plans next week around Lauren's arrival... I think everyone is excited :-)

April 06, 2006

Stay Tuned...

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